The FDA’s Proposed Ban on Hair-Straightening Products Containing Formaldehyde is a Step in the Right Direction

I was in the fifth grade when I first understood that liberation could manifest in different forms. That day, freedom had announced itself in the barbershop. Undeniably, my “big chop” had been a nerve-racking yet transformative rite of passage. As I watched the barber’s blade slice through my chemically processed hair, I understood that an underlying part of me was now coming into full form. This experience was not merely a physical alteration but also an opportunity to detach myself from harmful styling practices.

It took a long time to arrive at that point. Years before my big chop, I’d subjected my hair to occasional relaxer treatments without truly understanding the hidden dangers of doing so. Frequent visits to the salon with my sister were a hallmark of my childhood. Such visits consisted of unpleasant blow-dry sessions and the stinging pain of chemical relaxers left on for too long. The trade-off seemed simple then — a little discomfort in exchange for straight, silky hair. However, if I could turn back the clock, I would tell my younger self two things: 1) You don’t need straight hair to feel beautiful, and 2) When it comes to hair care, our sacrifices can far exceed personal comfort and begin to endanger personal health.

Black women are especially vulnerable to harm derived from hair styling practices. For example, this year, the Food and Drug Administration proposed a ban on formaldehyde as an ingredient in hair-straightening products, which are popular among women of color. The proposed ban, with a target date of April 2024, would include formaldehyde-releasing chemicals such as methylene glycol.

When inhaled, formaldehyde can lead to multiple side effects ranging from chest pain to wheezing to frequent headaches. One study by the National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences (NIEHS), associated with the National Institute of Health (NIH), even discovered that hair-straightening chemicals increase uterine cancer risk. The study incorporates data from 33,497 U.S. women ages 35 to 74 who were monitored for about 11 years, during which 378 uterine cancer cases were diagnosed. Of the participants who reported using self-straightening products, 60 percent self-identified as Black.

Although the risks associated with chemical relaxers have long been documented, the decision to discontinue relaxers can be a difficult one for many Black women, especially given the prominence of race-based hair discrimination. Statistics from the CROWN 2023 Workplace Research Study reveal that Black women are 54% more likely to believe they must wear their hair straight to a job interview to succeed. Additionally, over 20% of Black women between the ages of 24 and 34 have been sent home from work because of their hair.

I understand this struggle on a personal level. I grew up being a part of predominantly Black spaces, surrounded by people who understood the essence of my natural curls. However, this didn’t necessarily leave me immune to awkward encounters, like reminding folks not to touch my hair without my consent or receiving unsolicited tips on making my hair more presentable.

Despite all this, I’ve grown to love my hair in all of its natural splendor, even more so now as a teenager. This love is fueled by the need not only to embrace Black pride and beauty but also to protect my health. I hope that as more light continues to be shed on the dangers of chemical relaxers, more Black women will make the transition away from such harsh treatments.

Fortunately, this transition is well underway. As revealed by a Forbes article, the sales of chemical relaxers, salons, and other professionals have been dwindling for at least a decade, from about $71 million in 2011 to $30 million in 2021. This data, which comes from the market research firm Kline & Company, marks a steady deviation from relaxers among the general populace.

The proposed ban on hair-straightening products containing formaldehyde follows mounting pressure from U.S. congresswomen Ayanna Pressley and Shontel Brown, both Black women. The move serves as a reminder of just how flawed the cosmetic industry can be. Under the law, cosmetic products and ingredients, although FDA-regulated once on the market, do not require premarket approval from the FDA. This is except for color additives. In other words, when it comes to ensuring the safety of cosmetics, much of the responsibility rests on the companies and individuals who manufacture or market them. This can make navigating the world of cosmetics feel like risky terrain for young consumers like me.

Black women should be wary of not only the consequences associated with hair straightening products but also those associated with high-risk hairstyles, which include cornrows, tight ponytails, and weaves. As someone who regularly invests in braids to protect my natural hair, I’ve learned over the years how important it is to ensure that these “protective” styles do just that — protect. I grew up listening to horror stories of irreversible hair loss caused by tight styling. My ignorance at the time prevented me from taking these warnings seriously. However, I’m much more intentional now about how I style my hair, opting for lighter styles like knotless box braids. I also allow my scalp to rest between styling with extensions.

Under no circumstances should beauty equate to pain. Over the years, I’ve slowly dissociated myself from harmful styling practices and believe that more Black women should, too. Learning to love my afro and prioritize healthy styling habits taught me the essence of embracing beauty in the absence of discomfort. The FDA’s proposed ban on hair-straightening products containing formaldehyde serves as a reminder to Black women that hair care is an integral part of caring for our overall health.